The 'Up North' Tour
Day 1
After a late night finish at work yesterday I wasn’t expecting to get up early but as with any trip we were up early and excited. Vera was all ready, food and clothes packed, fuel and water topped up, so after a coffee and a bite to eat for breakfast we were on the road to meet Norman & Jean who had come up last night and stopped at a small CL site at Romsley. We were all on the road towards the M6 for the trip up north, the radio put out a traffic announcement that there were long queues at J11 due to an earlier accident so we decided to cut across country and get on the motorway at Stafford.
The M6 was as busy as usual but we made good time and stopped at a services for a bite of lunch then continued up to our first nights stop over at Clapham, Yorkshire at little out of our way but we wanted to call in and see the Ribbleshead Viaduct.
The Camping & Caravanning Club THS was in a great spot with wonderful views out across the Yorkshire dales, water & CDP all for £5.50 pn.
After the long drive we had an early tea, paella with a glass of chilled rose wine, followed by some cheese, Blue Monk, and crackers as the last of the sun went down.
Ater tea we decided to take the short stroll into the village of Clapham, the centre of which runs Clapham Beck, we walked through the quite streets past the market cross up to the church where bell ring practice was taking place, then crossing the bridge over the beck, back down the other side stopping off at a water well then back to the van for an early night.
We were packed up and ready for today's touring by 9.00am but still had to empty the toilet and fill up with water, the CDP was a tank on a trailer, the water was a different matter, when we normally use sites its really straight forward, we drive to the tap, connect the hose to the van, fill up with water, here was slightly different, the tap was in another field, we had to park on the side of the road, pass the hose over the dry stone wall, run around to the gate, up the side of the field to connect to the tap. It all seemed to be a bit of a faff but we topped up eventually.
Todays plan was to drive out to see the Ribbleshead Viaduct then across the dales to Hawes to pop into the Wensleydale creamery then out again across the dales to Kendal, up the A6 Penrith then visit the Castlerigg Stone Circle near Keswick before finally finding a site for the night.
All went well, we were treated to great (if a little wet) views of the Ribbleshead viaduct, even had a train cross it, we moved on past some beautiful scenery to Hawes, the creamery was very busy, we thought that there was less choice than the last time we visited, after buying a couple of truckles of cheese, one straight Wensleydale and one with rhubarb and ginger we did a loop back through the dales to Kendal, which was a nightmare due to the traffic, we eventually got out and headed up the A6 and stopped at Shap summit some 1350 feet above sea level for a spot of lunch.
Onwards towards Keswick and the stone circle at Castlerigg, we got a little lost and took the turning a little early which took us down some really narrow roads but we were treated with some spectacular views of the mountains, we eventually arrived at Castlerigg, which has dramatic panoramic views of Helvellyn and high seat as a back drop, the stone circle dates from about 3000bc.
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| Castlerigg Stone Circle |
We left Castlerigg for Mungrisdale C&CC cl a few miles away for our second night stop over, the site overlooks Blencathra and the northern fells, its very quite with only bird song and the distant bleating of sheep.
As we sat eating tea the skies started to clear and there were hints of blue skies and some weak evening sunshine to end the day, we have had a long drive today but the scenery has been wonderful, we sat finishing a glass of wine reading and writing today's diary. Here’s to another good day tomorrow - Cheers.
Day 3
Woke early to the sound of, well nothing, nothing apart from the bleating of distant sheep and a cockerel, fortunately a not too noisy cockerel, we both showered before a full english, eggs, bacon, sausage, tomatoes and fried bread with the back doors open looking out over the fells towards Blencathra.
Ater doing our usual chores, water top up, CDP waste water etc, we were on the road, our plans this morning was to drive the 30 odd miles to Cockermouth to meet up with Stuart, a long time friend who was ‘back home’ looking after his mom who had just come out of hospital,
We chatted for some time before deciding to take the short walk into Cockermouth and stroll the town, we walked along the River Dewent, back through the town to visit the poets William Wordsworths childhood home. The house, now owned by The National Trust is furnished and dressed as would have been back in the 1770s when Wordsworth was born.
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| Wordsworths House - Cockermouth |
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| Maryport Harbour |
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| The Alauna Aura - Art Instalation |
We spotted a fish & chip shop on our way back so have decided not to cook and have a take-away tonight.
We sat with our fish & chips watching the sun go down over the bay, what a lovely end to day three.
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| Maryport Park-up |
Thursday 8 July
Day 4
We woke really late this morning, after taking Izzy for her morning walk we had breakfast overlooking the Solway Firth.
All packed up we intended to hug the coastal road (B5300) to take in the scenic route and see how far we would get today. We had only gone 10 minutes down the road we we made an impromptu stop at Dubmill point for a quick stroll and photo opportunity then back on the road, again 20 minutes of driving took us to Silloth, we parked up just after the town centre overlooking the sea.
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| Silloth Sea Front Art |
Our first stop in Scotland was Gretna Green famous for its weddings at the old blacksmiths forge, its very commercialised but we stopped and took photos had a look around, due to covid we were not able to get into the old forge but there had been a wedding there earlier with the bride have her photo taken by photographer and loads of random tourists, good luck to the couple.
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| The Old Blacksmith Forge Cottage |
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| Scottish Thistle |
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| Adele & Nigel - benivanadventures |
From Gretna Green we moved on along the B721 to Caerlaverock Castle, it was getting late by now so looked for an aire type stop-over on the Caerlaverock estate, when we got there is was almost full but we managed to squeeze in a gap, to the annoyance of one of the MoHo owners, who I must say, could have parked better to allow others more space but hay-ho its a stop-over for the night.
Tea tonight is pasta carbonara with a glass of wine, its really quiet here with just the sound of bird song in the trees. Hopefully should be a good nights sleep.
After tea we called around Norman & Jeans van, played Rummikub, a new game for us, using numbered tiles a bit like Scrabble, good fun but not straight forward after a couple of gins, a bottle of wine and some rum in Normans Van.
Day 5
We woke to grey, misty, dreary weather, the sort of wet mist that soaks you just by looking at it. It was raining like this the last time we visited Scotland in the 1980s and I don’t think its stopped since.
We had a breakfast and planned out our day, after topping up water and slopping out we left the over night spot at Caerlaverack corner, our first visit of the day was back up the road to The Caerlaverack Castle, a medieval castle with a twin towered gatehouse and imposing battlements, believed to be the only three sided castle, now in semi ruin, it was besieged by the English in the wars of Scottish Independence.
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| Caerlaverack Castle |
Having got soaked we continued our travels along the Galloway coast to New Abbey where the ruin of Sweetheart Abbey lies, we had coffee and went to explore, the Abbey itself was closed for safety work but we could still walk around the perimeter, we continued to the village and walked around the old corn mill and through the pretty village, returning to the van for a spot of lunch.
We continued our journey along the A710 towards Kirkbean to take a look at the John Paul Jones cottage, he was the founding father of the American Navy but classed as a pirate to the English, we hadn’t planned to visit the museum but we are glad we did, we had a video about his life, had a good look around the museum full of artefacts and collectables then went into the small cottage where he was born, a very interesting afternoon.
Time was again pressing, we started looking for a spot for the night, we had found a couple of over night park-ups back down the road but carried on the a Forestry Commission site just outside Dalbeattie.
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| Forestry Commission site just outside Dalbeattie. |
Saturday 10 July
Day 6
Woke at 7.30am after a very quiet night, as is coming the normal, I took Izzy for a walk around the forest for half an hour whilst Adele made coffee & breakfast, we were all fed and left the forest just after 9.30am, for the short drive to Rockcliff, a beautiful rocky bay with views to Rough Island known for is sea bird colonies, we sat for a while admiring the views then took the coastal path to Castlehill point.
We did the return trip then took time out for a coffee before driving on to Auchencairn to top up with gas, then towards Kirkcudbright passing Dundrennan abbey. We arrived at Kirkcudbright at lunch time, we had been told about scotch pies so went in search for lunch, first shop had sold out but found some at the local bakers. We returned to the van to heat up, the pies are encased in short crust pastry with minced lamb inside, they were a little under whelming so may try a different type next time.
After lunch we walked down the side of the River Dee in to the town where a couple of fishing boats were moored, then up into town past Maclellans castle stands, the castle dates back to late 16th century but was closed due to covid.
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| Kirkcudbright |
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| Maclellans Castle |
We walked around the rest of the town before returning to the van and to find a stop for the night, after last nights forest camp we were looking for a campsite so we could empty tanks and top up with water ready for showers tomorrow, we had to back track to Dalbeattie to a C&CC cl Claycroft Farm, although they only had one pitch on the CL they make space for us in their field area.
We parked up just after 4.00 and relaxed in the afternoon sunshine, we had an earlier tea of sausages, hash browns and beans.
Day 7
Woke just after 7.00am, we had showers this morning after which I took Izzy for her morning walk, around the site then down a small path that led to the river. On our return Izzy was greeted by her breakfast and me my morning coffee, we are going to have a ‘Scottish’ breakfast this morning, the ingredients for which were bought from Kirkcudbright yesterday, egg, square sausage, potato cakes, haggis rounds, black pudding and sliced fruit pudding, a mixture of oatmeal flour, beef suet, brown sugar, currants, raisins, sultanas, salt and cinnamon, which is fried like a normal breakfast, however, although nice on its own, with other savoury items was really strange, we both will give it a miss next time. After breakfast and topping up with water we left the site to take a drive around Loch Ken, a nice drive but slightly disappointed with the views or to be precise, lack of, stopping for morning coffee half way round.
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| Cairnholy Cairns |
We carried on to Wigtown and found a park up at the riverside harbour, we checked the tide tables, there weren’t any ‘No Overnight’ signs, so thought we would be okay for a night here, once the locals and day trippers had left we had the place to ourselves.
We are running out of fresh food, (shopping tomorrow) so had a type of paella but without the chicken, a glass of wine followed by some more of the nice Wensleydale cheese we bought from the Dales.
Day 8
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| Martyrs Cross - Wigtown |
We were running out of provisions so back tracking in to Newton Stewart to do some shopping then continued down the coast visiting Scorbie Tower for Lunch, Scorbie Tower was a fortified tower house and the ancient seat of the Clan Hannay, built in the late sixteenth century we decided to explore the tower just as it started to rain again so only managed a short walk before getting soaked, we returned to the van then made our way to Garlieston for a lovely walk around the bay, it had dried up nicely by now then down to Isle Of Whithorn, where we plan to stay the night, parked right on the harbour overlooking the sea. Tea tonight will be pork chops, potato croquettes and sugarsnaps with a spot of cheese later.
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| Isle Of Whithorn |
We woke after a very quiet night, the sun was out and not a breathe of wind, I took Izzy for her morning walk down to the harbour and watched as a heron was being bombarded by two angry seagull parents protecting their young chicks, returning to the van for our breakfasts.
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| St. Ninnians Chapel |
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| Mull Of Galloway Lighthouse |
It was getting a little late by now and we had not found any where to stay tonight, due to us having the previous two nights wild camping we were in need of a site with drop facilities but checking the apps we found only one close by and that was full. Earlier in the day when passing through Port William we noticed a site right on the shoreline, Adele tried to contact them but with no success. It certainly wasn’t full when we passed so thought we would take a gamble on getting a pitch, we drove back around the Mull to the site, Kings Green Caravan Park, it is a community project, all monies raised go back into the local community.
What a spot it is, right on the beack with spectacular views back out to the Mull Of Galloway and we get a clear view of the Isle Of Man.
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| Camp site at Port William - Kings Green Caravan Park |
As we were late arriving we started tea, Chicken Kiev with potatoes and mixed veg, I sat uploading the photos and videos looking out to sea with a glass of chilled fruit cider, its a little breezy but the sun shining, a wonderful end to a packed day.
It may have taken the best part of thirty years but we have now stood on the most northerly point in Scotland, Dunnet Head and the most southerly, Mull Of Galloway.
Day 10
We woke to bright skies and sunshine, after showers in the van we had breakfast, being the 14th July Bastille Day, we had coffee and pains au chocolate. We had a really leisurely start, we needed to top up and slop out before leaving the site. We finally got on the road about 11.00am for the drive back up the coast to Port Patrick. Having parked up in the car park just above the harbour we walked out to Dunskey Castle, the path to which goes up many, many steps, across a narrow path at the cliff top then across a bridge that goes over a ravine, this16th century castle stands out on the headland .
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| Dunskey Castle |
After our castle walk we went across the sea front to the old harbour, where the RNLI lifeboat is on duty,
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| Port Patrick |
we were lucky enough to be able to see it go out on a training exercise, the town was quite busy which was good to see, on the way back to the van we stopped of at The Crown Hotel for a spot of lunch, considering the date we chose to have moule frite in a cream and dill sauce which was excellent and a glass of local ale, Summerisle from the Isle of Whithorn, it was really nice, if I hadn’t been driving we may have had more.
After a leisurely day it was time to leave a hot and sunny Port Patrick and take the coast road out to Stranrar via the Rhins of Galloway, where we should have been able to see the lighthouse but its now a private hotel so the access road was barred then up the coast before turning left back into the Dumfries forest, we tried numerous places to have an over night stop but we had difficulties finding somewhere, we were getting tired now so in the end we made our way back to Newton Stewart and a Forestry Commission site at Kirroughtree,£6 for the night.
It was getting on by now so we had a large gin whilst our quick tea of Scottish beef sausages, hash browns and beans was cooking. The park up is very quiet with only three vans parked up, there are no TV, mobile or internet signals here so no disturbance tonight, after tea we finished our evening reading a book and writing the diary with the last of the red wine to slurp.
As we got ready for bed all we could hear was a lonely wood pigeon cooing as only pigeons do and the sound of Izzy snoring in the front of the van as only Izzy knows how.
Woke at 2.00am, as we were in the UKs first ‘Dark Skies Park’ we were hoping to see the stars and galaxies in all there wonder but as our luck goes we woke to find cloudy skies so no stars, went back to bed.
It was 7.30 when the alarm went off, we had had another very peaceful night, we had kept both sky lights open for ventilation but its was unusually warm in the van, I opened the blinds to find clear azure blue skies and , even at this time in the morning, hot sunshine. I took Izzy for her morning walk into the forest park for twenty minutes or so to return to the van with the smell of bacon cooking, bacon butties and a mug of coffee for breakfast.
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| Kirroughtree Forest |
We had planned to do a couple of the trails which should take us about three hours, out to the 50th anniversary cairn then following the trails to Loch Bruntis and Little Bruntis. The weather was very hot, clear blue skies and hot sun, as luck would have it, most of the paths were under the tree canopy but where there were clearings it was unbearably hot, we stopped many times to let poor Izzy have a drink and a break, she was much happier when we got to the Loch so she could paddle and take cool water.
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| Loch Bruntis |
As always our little trek took us longer than the information boards had said and we had covered over 5 1/2 miles so we must have gone wrong on more than one occasion. Back at the van it was insufferable, the temperature gauge inside the van measured 42.5 degrees, we opened the roof vents fully, the back and side doors to cause a draft and kept the blinds shut to keep the sun out. After about half an hour it had cooled down enough for us to sit inside for lunch and plenty of cold lemonade.
After tea we had a quick walk up to the harbour, the tides was out so not much to see but we did see an oyster-catcher on her nest, we returned to the van read for a while before retiring for the night.
Day 12
We woke 7.30am, I took Izzy for her walk, she wasn’t too keen today, must have been something with us walking her legs off yesterday around the forest.
We had a mini English breakfast before packing up to leave a local gentleman drove past us and stopped next door, we were expecting him to come over and complain about us overnighting there but on the contrary, he asked where we had come from, warned us about the high tides that can flood the car park, the village were looking at how to make the site better, we said it was good as it was but thought a honesty box would bring in some cash to spend in the village. Before leaving we went to check on the oyster-catcher nest, the bird flew away as we got there but there were two eggs on the nest, as we walked away she returned.
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| Wigtown Harbour |
Our plan today was to stock up with groceries for home in Newton Stewart then, checkout the beaches around Isle of Fleet, we not disappointed, the area beautiful, we walked along the beach for an hour or so soaking up the sunshine, the only thing we were annoyed about was the amount of disposable BBQs and beer bottles left around something you wouldn’t expect in such a lovely area.
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| Isle Of Fleet |
We moved onto Castle Douglas and Carlingwark Loch for lunch, after a late lunch we moved on to a CAMC cl at Hightae, the site was so peaceful, we sat on wooden seats under a big oak tree slipping a refreshing gin & tonic.
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| CAMC cl at Hightae |
I started the diary and the GoPro footage as Adele started to prep tea, paella with a glass or two of rose wine, it went a little windy later in the evening which made it a little uncomfortable to sit outside so, after tiding up, we sat reading enjoying the peace and quite as the sun went down.
Just as we we’re thinking of putting the bed up, about 9.45, we heard a tremendous noise, like a jet fighter engine but couldn’t see anything, then up the drive trundled a tractor and bailing machine.
Behind us on the site was an open field with lines of drying grass which had previously been cut, so now was the time to bail it, for the next 45 minutes the farmer drove up & down with the automatic bailer wrapping the big balls of hay in their black plastic jackets before going off the way he came, an interesting, if very noisy end to the day, it was gone 10.30pm when we retired to bed.
Day 13
Woke 7.30 as normal to a very hot van, we had left the roof vents fully open and the back windows on the night catch but at this early part of the day the temperature gauge shows 26c inside and 31.7c outside, it’s going to be a warm one to day.
After showers and taking the Izzy for a short walk, all the van doors are open and the sun canopy out but we couldn’t find enough shade so sat in the back of the van rear door flung wide open looking out onto the old oak tree for breakfast, after packing up we were ready to leave this really peaceful CAMC cl by 10.30, as we were so close to Lockerbie we thought it would only be right and proper to call into the town that tragically made the worlds headlines on 21st December 1988, we stopped at Lockerbie Memorial Garden, an area set aside in towns cemetery, a large stone memorial displays the names of the 259 people killed on PanAm flight 103 and the eleven locals who also lost their lives in the terrorist attack, we stopped for a few moments with our thoughts.
We walked back to the van with a tear or two in ours eyes.
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| Lockerbie Memorial Garden |
It was time to call our ‘Up North’ tour to an end, we put in ‘Veras’ home postcode in her SatNav and headed for the M74 towards England, we enjoyed our trip up here visiting the Yorkshire moors and the Lake District even if they were fleeting visits, we have had a great couple of weeks exploring this part of Scotland, Dumfries & Galloway is beautiful and very quiet, not too many visitors which gave the feeling of space, something we needed, the views we have seen have, in most cases, taken our breath away, history is around every corner, the people we met were very friendly and welcoming. Dumfries & Galloway is missed by most who ‘go to Scotland’ so, next time you travel “Up North” turn left at Gretna, you will not be disappointed, we certainly were not.
Fuel Cost: £ 198.88
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The ' Up North' Tour Pt4
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