Norfolk - July 2020

Norfolk

July 2020

We are not lost - Just don't where we are go going

Where to?

Monday 20th July

We left home at 9.30am but before hitting the motorway we needed fuel and gas, filled the van full of diesel, it over flowed all over my shoes, that's a good start, then to the auto gas station; as we drove through the gates the guy came out of his office arms waving like a windmill, the pump nozzle was broken so no gas, great! we did have a bout a third of a tank so no immediate problems.

We traveled down the motorway well with no issues, stopped off at Cambridge services to stretch our legs and take Izzy for a walk, just as we were passing the petrol station I noticed a gas pump so pulled in quickly and topped up.

Little Lodge Farm - camc cl

We found a pleasant spot for a late lunch, had a quick walk then to find a site for the night, CAMC cs Little Lodge Farm, Startham Downham just out side Thetford, we set up camp watched on by about ten horses, the site was on a stud farm with lots of separate paddocks with horses enjoying the grass and hay. We got tea ready, teriyaki pork with stir fry washed down with a lovely bottle of wine Spencer gave us before leaving, we tidied up and played scrabble for a couple of hours before bed.

Tuesday 21st July 

We woke 7.30am after a very quiet night, the skies were blue and sunshine beating down as I took Izzy for her morning walk, the area arounf the stud farm had plenty of places to walk especially as it was on the edge of Thetford forest.

Over breakfast we had a planning meeting, we would go into Thetford, home to the Home Guard, well home to the original Dads Army TV series which was filmed in the area. There was a Dads Army museum but was closed due to covid-19, we wandered around the town and had a few word with Captain Manwaring on a bench by the river.

Onwards we went up towards the coast with a stop off at the Sandringham estate but HRH was out, shopping I was told, again the house and gardens were closed but we could walk some of the estate, we moved on to Snettisham, however, it was very anti MoHo with height barriers everywhere, we carried on to Heacham and the Norfolk lavender fields, not as extensive as the ones in France but still good with the heady scent of lavender in the air, the centre showed how they distill to get the oils from the flowers.

Norfolk Lavender

It was 4.00pm so started to find a site for the night, we must have found 10 - 12 club cs/cl sites, all full, loosing patience, Adele checked on P4N and found a couple of park ups near by, one at Thornham Old Harbour, the aera is well known for it salt marshes but can flood!

On arriving there were already a couple of vans parked up, Adele had a word with one , who was a full timer, she said that it would be a high tide tonight and would break the banks so probably would wash the tyres!

Now I'm not one to take risks especially as we don't know the area so moved a little way down the track which looked like it was slightly higher ground.

Once the day trippers had gone all you could hear was the reeds moving in the breeze and the sound of the bird song.

We had tea, lamb kofftas and couscous, we kept off the wine just in case we were moved on in the night.

Thorham Old Harbour

After tea we walked back up the track to the edge of the marshes to see what effect the high tide makes, the water was up over the banks and lapping the edge of the road, the landscape had changed so much and was spectacular all covered in water.

We walked back to the van had a hot drink and retired for the night.

Wednesday 22nd July

We woke at 7.00am after a very quiet night, high tide was at 8.00am so took Izzy for her walk and to check out water, again it was over the road but this time was lapping around the tyres on a couple MoHos who were looking very concerned.

The marshes looked beautiful and calming with the water covering the area, we had breakfast and after yesterdays problems with getting a site we phone ahead to Oak Farm CL at Holt and planned to go to Sherringham. We left the marshes with a slight sadness as it was a beautiful place; we must return here one day.

We called into Brancaster beach, the large car park had about 30 cars and a couple of MoHo on, we paid a couple of hours car parking so we could walk on the beach, as the time went on it appeared that there were more and more people arriving, more than we were comfortable with, when we got back to the car park there must have been 200 cars there, time to leave.

We Drove along the coast road through Staithe, Holkham to Wells Next The Sea, we love the way all the villages have carved wooden signs, some plain and others colourfully painted.

Wells was again very busy, we parked the the coach park which had spaces for MoHos, the harbour side was filled with kids crabbing, we continued out along the Norfolk coastal path where there were very few people, as it was lunchtime we were going to have some fish & chips but the queues were mad, Adele found a little deli up a side street which made up fresh crab sandwiches, we also had a pot  of crayfish tails which we took back to the van.

By the time we had finished lunch it was well after 3.00pm, we left Wells and travelled the coast road through Morston, Blakeney and Cley Next The Sea which looked lovely, it was getting late now so decided not to do Sherringham and go straight to the nights camp, Oak Farm, this CL is a little way out of Holt but apart from the faint traffic noise was very peaceful.

We had tea, minted lamb steaks with new potatoes and sugersnaps, after tea we again played scrabble until it was time for bed.

We had a problem with the truma heating controls giving an error message and not allowing hot water or heating, google informed me that we had not shut down properly from the mains and was an easy fix.

Thursday 23rd July

We woke at 8.00am had showers, which are working well, fingers crossed then had breakfast, we checked in with the CL owners to stay an extra night, then decided to return to Cley and have a good explore, it was well past 11.30am by the time we had left, the roads in Cley are very narrow and yesterday very busy but the camp site owners told us the best way in and to park behind the village hall, local knowledge is always the best, there were plenty of spaces and free to park.

Cley Smokehouse

Inside Cley Smokehouse

From the village hall we walked down narrow passageways that looked like they hadn't changed for hundreds of years to get to the main street, we called into the Cley Smokehouse, a traditional smokery, a wonderland of smoked food, we bought some smoked trout and orange pate for tea and a couple of crab baguettes for lunch, we window shopped down the high street, Adele noticed a lovely art gallery, she was taken with some of the sculptures of wild animals in the window until I pointed out the price of a trout done in bronze priced at £3300, we continued along the path through the reed beds towards Blakeney Point to have a look at the Cley Windmill, we were hoping to find a spot for a picnic but this was not to be so returned to the van for a late lunch of our crab baguettes, we snoozed for a while then back on the road through Salthouse and Weybourne to Sherringham, again a little late to explore so did a little grocery shopping and returned to site, once set up we sat in the sunshine reading with a G&T, then tea, tonight from Adeles Campervan Cookbook, roasted peppers and mushrooms with slices of Camembert cheese on a thick slice of toasted bread all washed down with a glass or bottle of pinot noir.

Another game of scrabble followed tea then retired about 10.00pm.

Cley Windmill

Friday 24th July

We woke a little late this morning, must be all the fresh air, I took Izzy for her morning walk and returned to the van to be greeted with a full english, over breakfast we made our plans for the day, we would return to Sherringham and if it didn't look to busy we would stop and explore, driving into the town there appeared to be a lot of people around, too many for us so carried on through the town, we did however find a small car park on the far side of town with very few cars and space for the van, we fed the car park machine with coins for a couple of hours parking, we walked the west promenade past the life boat station towards Weybourne, it was very quiet out this way and sat at the far end soaking up the sunshine, we returned the way we had come and found a small shop selling local ice cream, Adele had lemon merraigne and I had honeycomb. 

Eating Ice-Cream

Back to the van we made our way along the coast road to Cromer, our memories of Cromer came flooding back, when Luc spent nearly all day crab fishing off the side of the pier, he must have been 6 or 7 years old at the time, he loved it and didn't want to leave.

The top car par was busy but not full so we planned to walk down to the pier, into town for another wonderful crab sandwich, but when we got to the pier it was heaving with families crabbing, the town wasn't much better, we found a bench to sit on out of the way and Adele went in search of lunch, after about an hour she returned empty handed, no crab sandwiches, in fact no sandwiches at all. We decided to return to the van and make up our own lunch, this we did and after eating packed up the van and started our now regular chore of phoning around the club cs/cl sites to find somewhere to take us. The first six we phone were all full, then we got through to CCC cs Kitswood camp site, on arrival we agreed that this was a little gem, very basic, just as we like with a water tap and CDP in the middle of a coppiced wood, we had a lovely warm welcome from the owner who chatted with us for sometime, he was really interested in where we came from, where we had been and where we were going, the site was fairly flat but we did need the levelling blocks to get flat.

We sat in the sun and read for a while before getting tea, another from Adeles Campervan Cookbook; fried potatoes with chorizo, green beans with a couple of fried eggs picked up from last night camp site. We were both tired so retired early.

Saturday 25th July

I was woken at 3.00am by the sound of heavy rain bouncing off the roof of the van, I rolled over and back to sleep, when we awoke it was gone 9.30am, I took Izzy for her walk over the fields next to the site which was also owned by site, on our return, even though we were later a full english breakfast was almost cooked. After yesterdays busy day Adeles back was playing up a little so decided to take it easier today; a short coastal drive to Mundesley and if were could take a look at Stow Mill, by the time we arrived it was lunchtime, we found a great spot to park the van and walked the promenade, we sat on a bench for some time before returning to the van, on our way back we came across a van selling shellfish, the even did fruits de mer but we settled for a crab sandwich for a change however they only had brown bread and Adeles not keen; so bought a dressed crab instead so would make our own, getting back to the van we had forgotten that we needed to shop and hadn't got any bread at all! We moved on down the coast in search of a little supermarket or village shop, no luck and by now it was almost 4.00pm so to late for lunch, we ended up at a big asda near Great Yarmouth, we did a big shop for 3 or 4 days not forgetting some crusty, seeded bread for our crab sandwiches tomorrow.

 Mundesley

It was now time for our daily nightmare of trying to get a camp site after a series of phone calls we found space at Meadow Farm a camc cl but we had to back track to Hickling Green. The site was flat, with each pitch having its own water, EHU, rubbish and recycling bins.

Just as we had plugged in it started to rain, we had decided to BBQ  some steak for tea with some home cooked chips, not put off by the rain I rolled out the awning and set up the BBQ, it all turned out great and washed down with a bottle of Cote du Rhone, we finished off with local strawberries and ice-cream, it was getting dark now, the rain had stopped and we were treated to a stunning sunset.

Sunday 26th July

We had a very good night, this cl is very quite, having had our showers and breakfast we enquired if we could stay on for another night but unfortunately they were fully booked, we left just after 11.00am on our way to explore the Norfolk Wildlife Trust site at Hickling Broads, according to the info a 2.5 mile circular walk around the marches, when we got there found they wouldn't take dogs, it was far too warm to leave Izzy, leaving we felt a little disappointed, our next stop was to be the NT wind-pump at Horsley, on the way we came across Waxham Great Barn, a grade 1 listed thatched barn built in the last quarter of the 16th century and restored in the 1990s, unfortunately as we have been finding, due to covid-19, we were unable to get inside but from the outside it was an amazing place.

Horsley Wind Pump

Onwards to Horsley Wind-pump, again we were unable to get inside but looked majestic stood on the edge of the Broads, we walked the Broads for a while before returning to the van for a late lunch of our eagerly awaited crab sandwiches, it had turned out a lovely day. The daily task of finding a camp site was easy today, first call to Holly Farm cl, we arrived late afternoon and sat in the sunshine with a G&T. 

Monday 27th July  

We woke 7.30am, it had been raining most of the night and had been very windy, we had breakfast, topped & dropped then left the park up for Ranworth; on route we came across Woodfordes brewery producing Norfolk ales we couldn't do the brewery tour due to covid-19 but the visitor centre, shop and pub were, we bought a couple different types to try later.

The village of Ranworth is on the edge of the broads with quaint thatched cottages and a 15c church, St. Helens, inside has beautiful hand painted wooden screens which separate the two parts of the church which was completed in 1453, it's said to be one of the finest examples in England.

Back to the van and onward to tonight's site, Grange Farm cl on a working farm, on the way we came across All Saints Tower at Panxworth, the tower is all that remains of the 14c church which had to be demolished in the late 60s, the remaining west tower is decorated with flushwork battlements, it was a little overgrown but was worth a quick stop off.

All Saints Tower

We arrived at the site mid afternoon, and had hoped for another BBQ but the weather has closed in again so we cooked tea in the van, Chinese pork with stir fry, all washed down with a couple of bottles of Woodfordes Norfolk Ales.

Tuesday 28th July 

We woke to blue skies and sunshine but still very windy, had showers then over breakfast planned to travel towards Burgh Castle and on way see the windmill at Berney Arms and St. Olaves Priory.

Things didn't go to plan.

So, as we left the site another MoHo came from the opposite direction in the middle of the road and smashed our door mirror, completely buggered by the time we had exchanged details, tapped the mirror so it was usable and reported to the insurance company the day had gone.

Arriving at Burgh Castle we thought it would be best to find a stop over site and explore tomorrow, by 2.45pm we were sitting with a cup of tea on Bramar Pony Stud cl trying to relax.

Wednesday 29th July

We had a good nights sleep considering yesterdays traumas, after breakfast we travelled the short distance towards Burgh Castle parked up, the walk took us past the medieval parish church of ST. Peter & St. Paul, with its saxon round tower from 900AD and it's magnificent 14th century stained glass windows.

St. Peter & St. Pauls Church

We continued our walk to what remained of the 3rd century saxon shore fort, built as part of the Roman coastal defences, there are only 3 of the imposing stone walls still surviving which look out over the salt marshes, we spent a good couple of hours there a very pleasant way to spend the morning.

We returned to the van and travelled down the coast to Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, but there were too many people about to stop so continued on to Southwold, although busy we managed to park up at the far end of the beach away from everyone to have a cup of tea and a scone.

Time was again pressing on so our daily ring around for a site started, we must have had luck on our side today, second call and we found a site, camc cl, St. Peters Place at Halesworth, a lovely quiet basic site with water, CDP & EHU although we didn't use it, the site is slopping so ramps were needed, after a relax in the sun with a G&T we had tea, we had an early night as we wanted to get up early to ensure a good parking spot at Southwold tomorrow.

Thursday 30th July

We woke just before 7.00am, packed up and moved down to Southwold, the town was very quiet but all the free roadside parking was taken so carried on to Southwold Harbour, we got a great parking spot overlooking the harbour entrance, we had our breakfast, rear doors open with sea air and sunshine streaming through, by mid morning we were ready for a stroll so walked down the harbour road past the small fishing boats and pleasure craft moored. There were old wooden sheds along the harbour-side which had just started to open selling fish and shellfish, the shipwrights were all busy repairing some of the wooden boats.

Southwold Harbour

We returned to the van which had stood lonely in the car park was now surrounded by cars, we had a spot of lunch and decided to go to the other side of the estuary, but trying to get there with all the traffic was impossible so returned early to St, Peters Place cl where we had booked for an extra couple of nights.

We had a couple of G&T before tea and said that tomorrow we would get up early again to go to Walberswick, the other side from Southwold, we had minted lamb steaks on the BBQ for tea it had been very warm today, we sat outside the van as fell.

Friday 31st July

Another early start, we were on the car park at Walberswick before 8.00am, in a prime position at the waterside, our £4.00 fee gave us all day parking, we sat drinking our cups of coffee with the sounds of sea gulls and sunshine beating through the side door, we had our full english overlooking the sand dunes as the early visitors started to arrive, as it was already hot we would just chill out here today people watching and soaking up the atmosphere.

At 10.00am I was due to take a conference call from work, we were given the news that we were to close and we were all on redundancy notice, something that didn't come as a complete surprise although upsetting all the same, it would have been nice to finish my working career at Stourbridge, almost 43 years continuous service. If I'm going to get bad news it may as well come in such a lovely spot.

Walberswick

By mid-afternoon the sun was very strong, we sat reading and talking over our news for hours, over a cup of tea and some tasty scones with fresh strawberries, jam and cream.

We had planned to have fish and chips for tea, but our plans had gone astray again as all the chip shops were on the Southwold side of the estuary, we drove around to the other side which took nearly half an hour, we we got there Adele joined the queues, only 14 people in front of her, but as the food was freshly prepared and the additional corvid restrictions she waited almost an hour.

When she got back to the van and we opened the boxes we found the best fish & chips we had eaten for a long time, very fresh, crisp batter on the cod, dry crunchy chips and delicious home made tartar sauce, we even had sprigs a parsley.

We sat eating our supper with the smell of the sea air, the sounds of the gulls and the sun starting to set, a lovely way to finish our last full day at the coast.

Fish & Chips

Saturday 1st August

We left the site before 8.00am to make the short drive to Dunwich, we arrived to a relativity empty free car park, they just ask for donations, Adele prepared breakfast as I took Izzy for a walk who wasn't happy about the pebble beach and soon wanted to return to the van.

We had breakfast, cleared away then went for another walk into the village, we noticed a map showing a ruined Franciscan Friary which had been founded in 1290, the ruins are the last of the ancient city of Dunwich, once a thriving medieval port, now almost entirely lost to the sea, our walk through the site led us to Greyfriars wood which contains the last grave stone from the 18th century All Saint Church which fell into the sea in the 1900s, the stone belonged to Jacob Forster who died March 12th 1796.

Grey Friars Priory

Our walk through the woodland took us back to the beach and the van, after a cup of tea we made our plans to leave for home but with a stop off half way back.

By 3.00pm we stopped at a camc cl called Nursery Cottage, put our chairs out and read until tea.

Sunday 2nd August

We woke late, had our last full english breakfast of this trip, it looked as if it was to be another fine day, we left the site by 11.30 for the last part of the journey, we made good time along the new part of the A12, on the M6 and M42 arriving home early afternoon.

Trip Details:

Miles: 837

Ave MPG: 32.2
Fuel Cost: £ 168.23

Car Parking: £25.20

Nights: 13

Camp Fees: £131.00

Camp Av. PN: £10.07

 

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We put our holiday photos in to small slideshows and are uploaded on to our YouTube Channel, benivanadventures, they are not professionally produced but give a feeling of the area and places we visit - Click on the links below:

Touring Norfolk ep1

Touring Norfolk ep2

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